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Finishing a slotted peghead. http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=6206 |
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Author: | Colby Horton [ Mon Apr 17, 2006 7:08 am ] |
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I posted a question about how to finish the slots of a slotted headstock a little while back. Anyway, I'm still having some trouble with this issue. I got one reply last time suggesting that I use a rag to get finish in the slots, but I can't seem to do this with nitro lacquer without making a mess. What I have been trying to do is get the finish really smooth inside the slots so that I don't have to sand it or anything, so I could just leave it glossy. But I'm finding this nearly impossible to do. Here's my question now. Do you guy's think I could just brush several coats in the slots as smooth as I can and then when I'm buffing the rest of the guitar polish the insides of the slots with some steel wool. Would it look good to have a glossy guitar and headstock with a satin look inside the slots. I'll never get that lacquer to flow off the brush so smooth that no rubbing is required. Could anybody that has finished a slotted headstock with nitro lacquer please chime in on this? ![]() |
Author: | JJ Donohue [ Mon Apr 17, 2006 7:32 am ] |
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Colby...I've done this with KTM-9 both sprayed and brushed. I was able to wet sand the slots using sticks and dowels covered with various grits of sandpaper. It's touchy and a bit of a PITA but in both cases the slots were nice and glossy. Just take your time and have patience. I would imagine Nitro to work similarly. |
Author: | Colby Horton [ Mon Apr 17, 2006 12:02 pm ] |
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Thanks for the reply JJ. Are you saying that you polished the insides of the slots just like the rest of the guitar with polishing compounds. Or did you just sand them smooth with the sandpaper wrapped sticks and dowels and get a good enough surface right off the brush/gun?? I had finished a classical with a slotted headstock using USL (stew mac waterborne lacquer) a year or two ago and I don't remember having any problems. But with this nitro lacquer it will start running and sagging on the face of the headstock, and just leave an ugly dusty mist inside the slots. Maybe if I mixed up a really thin mix of lacquer just for the headstock?? Do you have anymore tips or tricks for spraying this kind of headstock?? Did you hold the gun at a 90 degree angle to the headstock face?? Or did you angle it right and left next to the slots?? Thanks, Colby |
Author: | Howard Klepper [ Mon Apr 17, 2006 12:59 pm ] |
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You sand and rub out the lacquer using various sticks and pad that enable you to get in there. It is tedious and awkward. |
Author: | A Peebels [ Mon Apr 17, 2006 1:03 pm ] |
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Just a thought,because I've never done this, but what about using a felt bob on a dremel with appropriate polishing compounds? |
Author: | Brazilwood [ Mon Apr 17, 2006 1:03 pm ] |
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Colby...there are a couple of options but, I would recommend that if you are having problems getting lacquer into the slots while spraying the rest of the headstock. Tape off the front and back of the headstock with masking tape leaving only the slots exposed. Cut your spray pattern down and the amount of lacquer coming out of the gun. Cut the air pressure (about 40lbs)and this should allow you to focus on the slots first. Once you have lacquer in the slots...roll your sandpaper for the rounded edges...flat for the flat areas and wet sand the best you can. Be patient and sand and continue to spray until you have a good coat of lacquer in the slots. Once you feel you have the slots covered well, wet sand them one last time. Remove the masking tape. Then make a mix of relatively thin lacquer to shoot one or two last light wet coats just to bring back the gloss. This should also help to blend any edge build up from the tape. If the lacquer is thin enough you should be able to avoid the white coating you are talking about in the slots. This is usually caused from overspray. You need to focus on the slot areas first in your final coats then when you put the light coat on the front and back of the headstock the slots will be wet and blend more easily. It's real helpful to have good lighting and keep the light reflection where you can see when you have the areas covered. They will have a gloss rather than the white overspray... ![]() NOTE: When wet sanding the slots..don't use too much water. This can go into the tuner holes and cause the wood to expand and crack the lacquer. |
Author: | A Peebels [ Mon Apr 17, 2006 1:05 pm ] |
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Another thought...mabe an airbrush. Al |
Author: | JJ Donohue [ Mon Apr 17, 2006 1:11 pm ] |
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Colby...What the above guys said. I found spraying to work better than brushing. Just don't let it run. Have patience! |
Author: | Robbie O'Brien [ Mon Apr 17, 2006 2:58 pm ] |
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Colby, If you spray the peghead at an angle you should have no problem getting lacquer inside the slots. If you get no runs there is no reason to have to sand and buff. |
Author: | Colin S [ Mon Apr 17, 2006 8:08 pm ] |
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I think I've posted this idea some time ago for finishing the inside of slotheads after spraying with an airbrush. It's a micro orbital sander and buffing tool, otherwise known as an electric toothbrush. Keep the old heads from your toothbrush and cut off the bristles. Stick some self-adhesive velcro to the tip, now you can attach micromesh or felt pads to the heads as you need, and have a handy little finishing tool. Just don't try polishing your teeth with it! Colin |
Author: | TonyKarol [ Mon Apr 17, 2006 10:52 pm ] |
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After having one too many headstocks show blush or blister from wet sanding with water, I use mineral spirits. No more probs. I too will be doing a couple slot heads for the first time this year, and have found that a little lac on a paper towel quickly wiped leaves a nice even finish (I do this on soundhole edges and soundports) |
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